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Unread 07-18-2013, 06:47 PM   #1
rothsauce
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Crayola Model Magic, seems an overlooked resource

Been searching to see what other have made with this stuff, and am rather surprised that there really isn't much outside of small accessories and some props.

Why? I've read some of the older threads that talked about this stuff, and wish to clear up a few things (others tried, but not many seemed to listen or acknowledge it).

Concern: When it dries, it is brittle and easily broken.
Counter: Yes, if you don't add any type of protective layers to it or give it some kind of reinforcement.
You don't need anything heavy or special, just something that the Model Magic can stick to will act as a base. Hot glue some poster board together, lay down your MM, and put on a few coats of Mod Podge (I prefer a type that is used for fabric, as it is specifically made to be even more flexible) and Gesso. Use a base of Aluminum Foil, make your shape, and use the MM and other elements. It still stays lightweight, and the other elements give it more durability and strength.
Craft foam and other such items can also be used, just give it something to adhere to and it can work very well in your favor. Just be sure to coat whatever you use as a base with some Mod Podge or other such coating, as it helps the Model Magic adhere more.
If you are going to use it for larger pieces (armor, large spikes, weapons) give it a coating of Automotive Enamel for higher durability.

If you do not reinforce this material in some way, yes the likelihood of it breaking is almost a guarantee. If you want to make a sword hilt, give it a wooden center. Same for other weapons, give an axe blade a core of Coroplast/Plasticor first (lightweight stuff but rather durable).

Concern: You can't sand Model Magic
Counter Actually yes, yes you can. Give it a few days to dry, and take a fine grit sandpaper to it. I tend to use grits within the 200 series, anything around that will sand it smooth and won't leave any scratches or marks on the MM. Though 300 tends to take more work, keep in mind the higher the number the finer the grit.

Concern: But Model Magic cracks when it dries, after all the work I put into a piece?
Counter: Yes, it can. However, those cracks can be easily sanded down or filled with Mod Podge, and also sanded smooth. Like any material, it takes practice and time to understand how to work around its cons.

The reason I am posting this is because I am building a suit of armor out of this stuff and Craft Foam, and see it as a more than useful material that could be a huge asset to many others. When I can, I will post some pictures of what I've done so far with it.
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Unread 07-18-2013, 08:36 PM   #2
animenerd93
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u forgot the fact that it shrinks about 20%
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Unread 07-19-2013, 03:14 PM   #3
rothsauce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by animenerd93 View Post
u forgot the fact that it shrinks about 20%
If you pack it on there tightly, it is more likely to shrink and leave cracks. Doing so without a heavy hand minimizes that, and you can add in other elements to keep it from shrinking so much. Paper Mache also contracts as it dries, and can also have things added to it to minimize the effects, such as Baby Oil.

It is not an automatic 20% reduction whenever you use it, otherwise I'd have to keep re-adding it to fill in gaps far more than I have, which has basically been a non issue except for when I've had to re-shape certain areas by bending the foam base layer... which is not so much an issue with the Model Magic to begin with.

Last edited by rothsauce : 07-19-2013 at 03:21 PM.
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Unread 07-19-2013, 09:09 PM   #4
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I'm using this for the some of the armor in the cosplay I'm making. It's really nice to use to fill spaces to make things more sturdy. (Instead of a hollow piece.) And cheaper than using my more expensive sculpt or having to carve crap to fit precisely.

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Unread 07-19-2013, 09:52 PM   #5
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Does it dry hard though? I used to make stuff with that all the time back in the day (ah, the late '90s/early '00s....) and when it dried it was always still kind of spongey. In fact, there are a couple of pieces my brother and I made for our parents that they still have, and they still feel slightly squishy. Have they fixed that?
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Unread 07-19-2013, 10:31 PM   #6
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As far as my experiences have gone, the foam is still foam. It still has slight squish to it once dried. But as long as you're not putting a lot of weight on it, it seems to bounce back fine. It doesn't quite matter in my case since I wanted a filler that absolutely wanted something that wouldn't "break" (Such as clay or styrofoam, things that can crumble and break more easily). I think if you're using something else as a cover (I'm using worbla over it.), it's enough of a barrier to not have to worry about it. Using it on it's own as armor? Well.. there could be things to cover over it to avoid the squishiness. First post talks about Automotive Enamel, which I have no clue about.

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Unread 07-20-2013, 01:48 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fabulousity View Post
Does it dry hard though? I used to make stuff with that all the time back in the day (ah, the late '90s/early '00s....) and when it dried it was always still kind of spongey. In fact, there are a couple of pieces my brother and I made for our parents that they still have, and they still feel slightly squishy. Have they fixed that?
Someone that made Cloud Strife armor said you have to let it sit for like a month to harden enough to use for armor..
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Unread 07-20-2013, 03:27 PM   #8
rothsauce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fabulousity View Post
Does it dry hard though? I used to make stuff with that all the time back in the day (ah, the late '90s/early '00s....) and when it dried it was always still kind of spongey. In fact, there are a couple of pieces my brother and I made for our parents that they still have, and they still feel slightly squishy. Have they fixed that?
As JasonTerror said, it takes a while to get 'dry', and it will get pretty firm. It would probably still be a good idea to coat it though, Gesso or Mod Podge, for added protection plus a better surface for painting.

Some parts of my armor have places that are over 1 in. thick with the Model Magic, but it still dried to a firm state and is rather sturdy. I'm still going to coat it with an enamel before slapping a coat of paint on it, just because it also has spikes and other protruding details (Monster Hunter 3 Ultimate armor - Diablos Blademaster; for those curious) and it will put my mind at ease.

To clarify, Automotive Enamel comes in a regular spray can. It is used to add a hard protective surface to automobiles specifically. However there are other Enamels that are also used for general outdoors type items that will work just as well.
However, so far I have only found a CLEAR enamel in the Automotive section.
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Unread 07-20-2013, 04:25 PM   #9
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I made some pieces out of model magic a while back and then when it started cracking and having that strange spongey texture, I wound up taking wood filler to it. I was able to get a light weight piece that was smooth and solid thanks to this. And wood filler is soooo sandable.
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Unread 07-20-2013, 05:20 PM   #10
rothsauce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kesra View Post
I made some pieces out of model magic a while back and then when it started cracking and having that strange spongey texture, I wound up taking wood filler to it. I was able to get a light weight piece that was smooth and solid thanks to this. And wood filler is soooo sandable.
Although I've only used wood filler on Expanding Foam, agreed that it would also be a good alternative way of fixing any cracks and negating odd textures.

For odd shapes and pieces, can honestly say I really enjoy working with this stuff. Specially if you subscribe to coupons from Michaels or Jo-an Fabrics, you can get a 2 lb. bucket of this stuff for $10-12.
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