Male to Female makeup tutorial.
This is what I do when I take the time to do my crossplay right.
1 – The Base Coat: After you have shaved as close as you can go over the beard areas with a “blue blocker” which can either be a purpose made one such as Ben Nye, or you can cheap out and use red lipstick. This is what we will focus on, even though the technique will be the same whether using the real stuff or this. First, dab the lipstick on the beard areas, with spots about 2 inches apart. Then take your fingers and rub it in, where you have a light reddish coat over the entire beard area. It’s going to make it better when you use foundation.
Next you’re going to use a lighter concealer under the eyes and where you need to brighten things up. Use a thin stripe of light concealer down the ridge of the nose, but don’t go all the way to the end. Use the lighter concealer at the apples of the cheek to make them look more round. Also, if you have a prominent adams apple highlight halfway between it and the sides of the neck where the cords stand out when tighten them.
Next, do a foundation that’s a little lighter than your natural skin tone over all of it. I personally use a theatrical cream foundation. Set it all with a powder. Then use a light bronzer to de-emphasize the adams apple a bit (less is more here), also shade under and along the jaw line to narrow it, a little at the bottom and under the chin, and on the sides of the nose too. Make sure you blend things well, and don’t go too crazy with the bronzer. Now you’re ready for the next step!
2 – The Eyes: Okay, here you need to either go ahead and let soemoen pluck the eyebrows. Don’t worry, they will grow back. Try to go for more of an androgenous look if possible, but if you can use eyebrow wax to try to make them look thinner and seal them into place. Hit that with a bit of foundation on the edges to make them look this, then use mascara to shape and paint. Be easy with it.
Next do white eyeliner at the water line to make your eyes look bigger and more innocent, and then go around this with a thin line all across the top lid (avoid this if your eyes are droopy), and from a line that goes from the inner edge of the pupil while looking straight all the way to the outside edge. Do a slight and subtle upturn at the end of the lower eyelid to give a slight “cat eye” look. Next put in false eyelashes if you dare, but if not curl them and with a steady and easy hand put on some mascara, focusing more on the top ones and working out, and put some on the bottom too, but not as much. Make sure you don’t get it all clumpy.
Next is the eyeshadow. Use a light colored eyeshadow to really brighten the eyes up, fading to corals, pinks, or golden colors on higher. Focus on the outer area (away from the nose) to make the eyes seem farther apart. Only use darker colors as appropriate for the costume/outfit because darker colors WILL draw more looks, and closer inspection which may “out” you if someone looks too hard.
3 – Lips: There’s not a whole lot to say here. First, use a lip liner to do an outline, but don’t go nuts. For a more natural look lighter colors such as pinks and such are best. It also helps with an innocent look. Make sure the lip liner is barely darker than the lipstick. Use a lip gloss to seal and plump up. If done right it’s going to look great.
4: - Finishing touches: Use a light amount of blush on TOP of the cheeks. Make it look like you’re innocently blushing in a cute way. You don’t want to follow the cheek bone or you’re going to look like either a drag queen or a 1980s lady of the night. Remember, less is more, so you simply want to add a little color. Keep the blush light, like a pink color. Then, after you’re done use a shimmer powder over that, but especially around the eyes, just above them too. Now take some Aqua Net hairspray, hold your breath, shut your eyes, and have someone spray a light film over the makeup. You just want a mist of it because it acts as a sealer and keeps things in place, so don’t go too heavy.
Addendum: Get a wig that frames the face. Make sure that the wig sits a little lower than your natural hairline. Some of the bangs going over one eye will help with passing, and if you can pull it off a twin tail clip in wig will work wonders. It makes the face seem narrower and the head seem a little smaller, which again contributes to the illusion. Stay away from short ones (unless you have twin tails to attach) or ones that flip away from the face. If you have a prominent adams apple a choker or a high collar can help hide it. A necklace or two will help on the neck area. Ear rings aren’t necessary if the wig is framing your face, but if your ears are exposed go ahead and use them, but don’t go with giant drag queen or grandmas costume jewelry style.
Get a corset to pull the mid-section in, fake boobies to fill the top out, and wear a skirt that flares to give the illusion of hips and to keep from having to tuck. For the love of God and all that is Holy, shave! Practice in any shoes you get. Avoid pointy toe one, get rounded toe instead. Chunky block heels are your friend if you’re doing heels. Textured tights are awesome for hiding the legs. Do all this and you’re going to come as close to passing as is possible!
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