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Unread 10-23-2013, 03:19 PM   #1
eebee
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Patterning a strange jacket

While I know my way around a sewing machine and a pattern, I need to appeal to all you genius pattern drafters for my most recent project, as it falls outside my abilities to slightly modify a purchased pattern. So I have many questions!

I'm busy planning Reina Roja, a character from the card game Netrunner, for PAX East. As you can see, her jacket is a little weird. The cuffs on the sleeves are manageable, as is the general hang of it (without any sort of zipper), but some other things are worrying me.

1) The shoulders/lapels/whatever those are. How would you recommend I pattern those out? Would they be an upper level above a more traditionally structured jacket underneath, or is there some clever trick I'm missing?

2) She is wearing a backpack which I intend to have as well. The straps have custom pockets through her coat. I've never done something like that, with no visible seams. Is there a particular method for creating external pieces like that?

3) I've never made a collar quite that large or stiff. Does anyone have a recommendation for a particularly stiff interfacing or some other method of keeping that large of a collar looking nice?

4) Similarly to above, the red piping on the shoulders seems to be much larger than the average piping. Is there some sort of large-diameter piping I could use, or should I just use the standard size and call it good?

Thanks!
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Unread 10-23-2013, 03:32 PM   #2
lemuries
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1) Honestly, those shoulder fins remind me of the red jacket from Thriller. Am I looking at it wrong?

2) I'm really not sure what you're seeing... unless you mean the straps go THROUGH the jacket, which I have done for Boba Fett. I just made really large buttonholes and fraychecked and then bound the edges so the harness straps could go through the vest.

3) I would actually make an interlining of something stiff (I'm a huge fan of canvas/duck/etc) because it won't disintegrate over multiple washes the interface does. It also breathes like cardstock does not (I have stiffened with that, yes).

4) I would make your own using double-fold bias tape over cording.

If I'm way off, hopefully someone else will speak up and give you better advice.
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Unread 10-23-2013, 03:35 PM   #3
Kelley
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Consider the "lapel" to be a completely separate piece. Lay it over a "body" - you'll have double-layers near that front and that's okay - you can trim out the fully internal part if you want to, but it's not necessary (and could look disruptive on a thinner fabric).

So - normal jacket, triangular piece laid over it.

It looks like the hidden straps part is basically like a patch pocket, but with no pocket - you'd cut a neat hole inside the pocket under the patch for the straps to go through. The hole wouldn't extend under the whole thing - just enough to let the strap though. Look up how to make a "welt" pocket - finishing the edges of the hole would be like that - although if you're using leather you might not have to bother with all of it (just make sure it's secure). Don't know what the back looks like.

If you're using a leather or pleather as thick as it's drawn in the artwork you shouldn't have to do anything special. I have a relatively thin cowhide that would even still stand up like that. Otherwise, you can insert a quilted piece to bulk out a thinner fashion fabric and/or something like buckram or other interfacing. Even craft foam.

I would just make the "piping" myself out of a folded-in-half (or sewn - depends on the fabric) piece of fabric - I think it would look much better than buying something that's not going to be quite right and not going to match the jacket fabric.
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Unread 10-23-2013, 03:52 PM   #4
eebee
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Thanks so much. These tips are all great. Definitely gives me a better idea of how to start working on it. I haven't picked out my fabric yet, but I was already intending to pick something heavier, so that should work great.

Unfortunately, due to limited images (she's only on a few cards), no one knows what the back of the jacket itself looks like. :P

Thanks again!
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