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Unread 07-26-2007, 12:03 AM   #46
Honey Usagi-chi
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Here's a tip, not so much terminology:
-Get yourself a seam gauge. It'll save yourself from A LOT of swear words when doing pleats/hems/scallops. It'll get them nice and even. I was close to ripping my threads out when I found this lying around the house. It only costs $1.00

Terminology: Google around for Whipstitch & blanket stitch. Those are the 2 things you must know when starting around for sewing.

Thanks for the links posted here! I found some neat info here too *amazement*

Last edited by Honey Usagi-chi : 07-26-2007 at 12:31 AM.
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Unread 09-27-2007, 01:01 AM   #47
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I have some great tips for Sewing Terminology: If need help learning how to sewing go to, where nancy who very well know in world of sewing, has videos of her show teach people on to sewing. Also Simplicity has free online classes that give you some really good information on learning on to sew. I hope this help even who having trouble learning to sew or needs relook at the basics.
Anime is great way to gateway to new worlds and people.

Always try to be nice people and don't allow hate to destory your heart and your joy of life.

Currently working on my first cosplay as Lafiel from Crest of the Stars. 1% finished
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Unread 09-27-2007, 02:23 AM   #48
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I remember that Nancy lady! I saw her on TV, she gives me the creeps. She knows EVERYTHING in sewing, and rambles forever about it >_o;
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Unread 03-30-2008, 07:57 PM   #49
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A Hong Kong Seam is when you use bias tape to encase the raw edge of your inner seams, beautiful, professional, and really time consuming.
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Unread 04-03-2008, 09:11 AM   #50
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Fabric Terminology

Here's a bunch of fabric types, because shopping for fabric can be kind of daunting when you don't have any clue what half the stuff means.

(These are copied from

DUCK: heavy, durable cotton that is tightly woven.
FLANNEL: comes in either a plain or twill weave; it has a slight nap (a soft, brushed look) on one or both sides. Since this fabric shrinks quite a bit, machine-wash and machine-dry, both hot. Use a with nap layout, double thickness. Use an 80/12 needle. Steam iron on cotton setting.
FLANNELETTE: soft, with a nap on one side.
GAUZE: sheer, lightly woven fabric. There is also silk gauze.
GINGHAM: checks, plaids, stripes, very lightweight.
LAWN: lightweight, plain woven, this fabric is soft, combed with a crisp finish.
MUSLIN: runs sheer to coarse; plain woven; comes in “natural” color or dyed.
BRUSHED COTTON: the fibers are teased apart to make the cloth fleecy, creating air pockets between the fibers, and feels warmer; is more flammable. Sometimes comes with flameproofing. It is strong, stronger when wet, stands up to hard washing, which makes it ideal for tablecloths, napkins, sheets, pillowcases. Resistant to heat, can be washed at high temperatures.
MATELASSE: raised woven designs, usually jacquard, with a puckered/quilted look.
MOIRE: a finish given to ribbed cotton or silk, achieved by passing the fabric between engraved rollers which press a watermark pattern into it.
ORGANDY: transparent with crisp finish.
PIMA: from Egyptian cotton; excellent quality.
PIQUE: cotton pique has a small embossed design, achieved by using two warps with different tension. It is very expensive to produce.
PLISSE: crinkled effect, produced on cotton by printing it with a stripe of chemical, which causes raised buckling by elongating fibers of the printed parts.
POLISHED: plain or satin weave; shiny due to chemical finish.
POPLIN: plain weave with a cross-wise rib.
SEERSUCKER: lightweight fabric crinkled into lengthwise strips of different colors. Traditionally woven with two types of warp, one under heavy tension, to give the variation in surface. These days, chemical methods are more often used to produce the crinkle. It does not need ironing after washing.
SWISS: sheer, fine fabric; plain or dotted with possible other designs.
TERRY CLOTH: looped pile, woven or knitted, and absorbent. French terry is looped on one side and sheared pile on other side.
VELVETEEN: short pile resembling velvet.

DAMASK: a jacquard weave, reversible pattern of satin or plain weave.
VENISE: a very fine damask of floral patterns, used for table linen.
CHINA SILK: China silk is lightweight, and plain woven. It wrinkles easily, and is used mainly for linings.
Fabric Prep: Hand-wash, gentle cleaner, air-dry. Press while still damp.
Layout/Cutting/Marking: without nap layout, double thickness. Mark with fabric markers or chalk. Cut with shears or rotary cutter.
Needles: 65/9 to 70/10
Pressing: Dry iron, silk setting.
TAFFETA: Silk that comes from white silk cocoons, not from Thailand . Taffeta is noisy, it rustles when you walk. Taffeta also creases easily. It has a crisp hand, and drapes stiffly. Sew carefully, as ripped-out stitches can leave marks, as can pins. If there is acetate in the fabric, steam can leave spots.
Fabric Prep: dry clean
Layout/Cutting/Marking: with nap, double thickness. Pin in seam allowances. Clip in seam allowance as chalk may leave a permanent mark.
Needles: 70/10
Pressing: steam, use an organza press cloth
DUPIONI: A mixture of silk cocoons, both long, smooth and short and rough yellow. It is reeled from double cocoons nested together. The finest dupioni silk is Italian, 2nd is Chinese, 3rd is Indian.
BROCADE: Jacquard weave, embossing effect and contrasting surface; brocade figures are raised above the surface of the cloth. Many times of multiple colors. Designs may be geometric or pictorial.
CHARMEUSE: Satin weave silk, crepe back, sometimes called “crepe backed satin”.
CHIFFON: Transparent, soft, light
CREPE: Crepe backed satin is also called satin-backed crepe because the fabric is reversible; one face has the matte, pebbly texture of crepe, and the other face has the smooth, shiny texture of satin.
FAILLE: Soft, warp rib silk with small, flat crosswise ribs.
GEORGETTE: Sheer crepe, heavier than chiffon; crinkly, pebbly surface; drapey; tightly twisted yarns; woven. Silk is more drapey than poly. Good quality – hand-wash with 1 tbs shampoo, dry flat, press light steam. Layout without nap, double thickness, using a tissue paperbase to which the fabric and pattern are pinned through. Needle sizes should be 60/8 to 65/9. Dry iron silk setting with mist.
NOILE: Short fibers, sportier appearance, made from the innermost part of the cocoon.
ORGANZA: Thin, stiff, plain weave; fairly transparent; comes in silk, poly, or rayon. Silk organza is of much higher quality. It doesn’t shrink, so you don’t need to preshrink. Machine washing and drying makes it softer; expect to dry clean finished garment.
PONGEE: Plain woven and thin, with a rough weave. A wild silk fabric which was originally hand-woven from hand-reeled Chinese tussah silk. It is woven raw, and then piece degummed. Current pongee silk is a relatively stiff, tightly woven fabric, in medium to heavy weights. Yarns are usually reeled wild silk, but sometimes white silk is used. Natural colors range from off-white to dark honey beige.
SHANTUNG: Dupioni type silk from the Shantung Province of China.
SILK BROADCLOTH: Plain weave of various weights, silk broadcloth is a crisp fabric.
SILK LINEN: Made of nubby yarn both length and cross wise, it has a plain weave. Silk linen comes in various weights, and has the look of linen with linen characteristics.
SATIN: Satin is a weave that produces a shiny surface texture from floating yarns. Protect the fabric with a press cloth, and use a dry iron while pressing. Use superfine pins to avoid snagging surface yarns.
TUSSAH (WILD): Plain weave with irregular thick/thin yarn, tussah has an uneven surface and color; it is sometimes called “raw silk”
NOIL: Textured silk made of short waste fibers. The waste fibers fall out when spun silk is made into yarn.
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Unread 04-04-2008, 06:14 AM   #51
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A nice list!

I'd add two points:

1. Just to make things more confusing, er, I mean, fun and interesting, many synthetic fibers imitate the look of natural fibers quite well. So, for example, you can't assume that a brocade is silk. Most of the brocades found in the usual fabric stores are in fact polyester. Same goes for broadcloth, poplin, chiffon, satin, etc.

2. Fabric stores can call a fabric whatever they want. Other than trademarked names (goretex, spandex) fabric names are completely unregulated. And, though you may find this hard to believe ^_^, some people working in fabric stores don't know much about fabric! So errors are not uncommon.
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Unread 04-04-2008, 09:03 AM   #52
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I found another nice list of terms in a pdf from
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Unread 04-28-2008, 12:05 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by SpaurhSpoor View Post
Oh, I got a great tip if don't want to cut the oringal pattern and don't have roll of tracing paper. Use copyer paper instead and scrotoh tape to make copy of your pattern.
Thanks so much for sharing this. I was hoping that I could do something like that. I am alterning the pattern for my costume and I was hoping to use the same pattern with different alterations for another costume later. I didn't really want to alter the original tissue paper. I was toying with the idea of scanning in the pieces once I got them on regular paper and I could just print out another copy if I ever wanted to use the pattern again or if I mess up when cutting out the pieces. The nice thing is that I guess you don't need to iron it either.
keep the faith,

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Unread 07-17-2009, 07:41 PM   #54
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This'll be very helpful for me! ;D
The only thing I've sewn was a mere skirt. Lol.
Anyway, I plan on making a judai/Jaden Yuki (YuGiOh GX) jacket in the near future, so hopefully this thread can help me out. ^_^
My mom is really good at sewing so she can probably help me out with it.
But I wanna learn a lot from her. Lol.
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Unread 08-16-2009, 03:52 PM   #55
Akemi Idane
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Woo, I'm on the way to moving my mom's sewing machine into my room, and bothering her to get me an overlock and a manequin for me for christmas.
So I'm starting to get serious about this, which is kind of freaky.
And now I need to go modify a pattern to have four tails instead of one.

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Unread 08-21-2009, 11:59 PM   #56
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Since I'm learning to sew as I go along here, these links are fantastic for me. To help me learn, I'm in the process of copying everything into one big Word document (which I'll be able to print off for quick reference.)

If there's interest, I'll post an attachment here as well for other people to use as they like.
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Unread 11-04-2009, 10:06 PM   #57
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Posts: 58 a big N00B at sewing and i was curious about sum things....
1. What is biase tape? (or something spelled kind of like that ^^)
2. would i be able to use fabric paint instead of sewing on trimmings? and will it wash off in the washer??????

ya.....thats about it....-^^-
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Unread 12-08-2009, 01:35 PM   #58
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I have a question and don't know where else to post it and it kinda has to do with sewing.
everytime I sew just a little bit with my sewing machine, I get really bad cramp in the left side of my neck and shoulder. any suggestions on that? I that it probally has to do with my chair and table hight, and my posture when sewing, but I still wanted to ask. I can't sew for that long anymore at my house because of this. I sew at my friend's and aunt's house and don't have this issue.
A lolita into cosplay, not a cosplay lolita.

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Unread 01-23-2010, 06:51 AM   #59
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Bias Tape-
Fabric that is traditionally cut into thin strips, and used to encase seams. The fabric is cut on a 45 degree angle allowing for the greatest amount of stretch in a woven fabric.
You can purchase ready made bias tape, or a pressing device to make it yourself.
There are several kinds of bias tape, including single and double fold. I prefer the double fold, as I find it easier to stitch on.
There is even bias tape that is fusible and irons on: (though I have never tried it)

Fabric paint:
You can certainly use paint instead of trim, but your results will be different.
Best to wash all fabrics before you paint them, that will help the paint stay.
There are many types of fabric paint, and be sure you pick something that is specifically for fabric.
You can go to your local craft store and get that puff paint that is in little tubes (brand name Tulip) but I find that stuff hard to control.
Jacquard is also a popular brand of fabric paint that comes in jars that you can apply with a paint brush. They have many versions; neopaque providing very good coverage and lumiere having a metallic sheen.
I prefer this brand and it can be heat-set with an iron- just follow directions on bottle. You can buy this at local craftshops (michael's, some jo-ann fabric stores) as well as

One more point: you need a very steady hand to use a brush to paint fabric- so I would recommend making/using a stencil.
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Unread 01-23-2010, 07:15 AM   #60
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Originally Posted by Hotaru230 View Post
I have a question and don't know where else to post it and it kinda has to do with sewing.
everytime I sew just a little bit with my sewing machine, I get really bad cramp in the left side of my neck and shoulder. any suggestions on that? I that it probally has to do with my chair and table hight, and my posture when sewing, but I still wanted to ask. I can't sew for that long anymore at my house because of this. I sew at my friend's and aunt's house and don't have this issue.
I sometimes get this problem too. It's hard to find the right posture when sewing.
I sit in an office chair, so I can adjust the height, but it is difficult to keep my back straight.
You could also try putting a wedge underneath your sewing machine, so it is tilted forward at an angle that it is easier to see.
there is this product:
but it is expensive, and I think you could do the same with a wooden wedge or some doorstops or something.

I've also seen this insane device that is meant to counterbalance you and force a better posture. Who knows? Maybe it's better at someone else's house because you're more relaxed or take more breaks.
Hope this helps.
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