Second to Nun
Join Date: Aug 2002
Ooh, haori! In all actuality, you don't even -need- a pattern to sew haori, kimono, yukata... the design is so unbelievably simple in real ones, it's amazing! Besides, I have that Simplicity pattern and it's really.. not that great e.e; I didn't like the way it turned out at all o_o doing it the real way is a LOT easier, too. So, without further ado...!
Haori and yukata and stuff are all sewn from long strips of fabric, about a foot wide and very, very long (I cannot recall the correct length...) To figure out how long it needs to be, just take a string and tape it to a little longer than where you want it to end, and then drape the other end over your shoulder to the same spot on the back of your leg (for Haori, it should be about mid thigh), stand up straight to make sure it will be long enough.. that is how long each strip of fabric needs to be!
Then you shall buy that length of fabric, and cut it into about 4 lengths, each about a foot long. 2 will be kept full length, the other you will cut exactly in half, so it will be half as LONG as it was, not half as wide. These will be your sleeves, by the way.
First step! If you can find a pole, or curtain hanger, set it up and drape the two long pieces over it, so the ends are even where they hang. Then, pin the two pieces together from where it lays on the pole all the way down ONE side. Leave the other open. With the two pieces you cut in half, drape them beside the two long pieces, one on each side, ends even, like before. Pin the bottom of those, and up the outer sides, leaving about 6-8 inches free for your hands to fit through. Pin the sides closet to the kimono only on the top and down each side perhaps 3/4 of a foot or smaller. Then, on the middle pieces, from where you stopped pinning the sleeves to it, pin the two hanging pieces together down the sides, all the way to the bottom.
If this sounds hard in text, don't worry! As soon as you drape the fabric on that pole, you will see the shape of the haori and it's very easy to figure out what is what from there ^^
So, everything is pinned for now! The traditional way of sewing these is really just a very even straight stitch where things are pinned. Remember right sides, in case you have a front and back on the fabric.
Of course, I have not met a seamstress that can do a straightstich that even by hand as that Japanese kimono seamstress, so you're much better off using a sewing machine. To make sure it's even, fold it over and use an iron to make the lines so you know where to sew. On the machine, use stiches as large as you can get.. the smaller they are, the more likely any unevenness will show.
Anyway, sew up the length of the pins on the back and the sides. When you sew the sleeves, round the pinned hanging corner a bit so it looks nice. Finish the parts where your hands will go through, as well as the edges on the open part that is by the edge of the haori. Sew the pinned parts together like you would any other sleeve.
Now, here's the REAAAAALLLY fun part e_e Now you get to sew the lining on the open edges! From that last section of fabric you have not used, you want to cut it down the middle, lengthwise, so it's only half a foot wide. This you fold in half lengthwise so it is double layered, 3 inches wide. In the very middle of that, pin it to the very top of the open part of the open part of the haori, and then down the edges. You will be sewing it to it, of course, so make sure it's neat! Were you going to me making a lining, which I would not recommend for a costume haori, you would attatch it at this point, to the outer lining, yadda yadda.. Anyway, it means you don't have to be too neat with the inner part of it, which won't show outside. Sew it together and down the edges of the open part. It should reach about halfway down before you run out of fabric. This is fine, as many haori stop here anyway, as they are underneath the hakama at this point, but if you want to make it neat, use the other section to elongate it. When it's satisfactory, try it on! If it's all good, pin the bottom and finish it!
And there you have it!
And now you also understand why kimono fabric is sold in small rolls and not big honkin' bolts o_o Hurrah!
If you have any more questions, I can see if I can't draw up a little tutorial.. it's easy enough to make itty bitty haori and kimono out of origami paper by cutting it into even strips O_O_d
(by the way, if nobody noticed yet, the way to make the haori pattern into a yukata is just to make the main section longer ^^ to make a yukata into a kimono, you just need to add the inner lining. Ugh, lining e.e)
I hope this helps!
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Second to Nun: A Chrono Crusade fansite
Last edited by Shadra D : 08-14-2002 at 12:35 AM.