Are you in college?
Are you dirt poor?
Do you live in a tiny apartment and have no access to power tools, and need to build an electro-magnetic rod for your Turk costume?
Look no further! There were so many people who wanted a tutorial that I mentioned in another thread, that I just decided to post the step by step process here. It's a tried and true process, if you have a little patience and a little spare cash!
Reference pictures of the Turk rod:
Granted, it's not an exact replica, but it's pretty darn close and this version is EXTREMELY beginner friendly. This was the first prop I ever built.
What you'll need is a foot long piece of dowel, 1 and 1/4 inches wide (They should have them marked on the display). Then two more pieces of dowel, each seven inches long, one 1 inch in width, the next 3/4 of an inch in width. (See! They get smaller! I'm so smart...I think.)
I picked out the dowel rods at Lowe's, and they were nice enough to cut them there at the store for me, as cutting out those dowels by hand to the correct length could take days. This wood is HARD. But that also means it's not easily damaged! Any hardware store that you buy these from should do you the courtesy of cutting them to the correct lengths. Take a marker and a measuring tape, and mark them off at the correct lengths in the store, just to make sure they're cut correctly.
You'll also need a pleather, easily bent material for the handle. I found my fabric at JoAnn Fabrics, bought a yard of it, and that left me with extra to keep for other things. You might want to buy black foam, also bought at a craft store, to glue under the pleather material- the pleather is awfully thin, so this would give it a more raised, realistic look for the handle. You'll need a silver spray paint and a spray on sealer, and also three quarters. (Yes, three quarters. As in coins. They will come in handy!)
The next few items are completely optional. I bought a small wood carving knife kit to carve the ridges into the dowels (in close up shots of the rods, you can see ridges at the top and middle of the handle piece). This isn't really hard, it's just time consuming. I also bought red and white small bottles of craft paint- again, working with the close up, there's a small red button on the handle of the rods, with the ShinRa logo on it in white. Hard to paint because it's small, but it would probably look just as good without it.
The strap that goes on the end of the rod is the hardest part, I think. What you'll need for that is a black bracelet with a ring on it to hook things to (I got mine at a Japanese sword shop, but I think Hot Topic carries ones that will work just as well). Next step is to head to the craft section of WalMart- they sell straps and D-rings for purses. You'll need a black, bendable purse strap, and a small D-ring. (The D-ring will later get glued to the bottom of the rod, and the purse strap will be hooked on that on one end, and the bracelet on the other).
The hard part is over- getting all the supplies. Get all the supplies for both rods at the same time, it'll save you a lot of trouble. Actually building the rod is pretty easy from here on out!
1. If you're going to carve the ridges in the handle, now is the time to do it, before you do anything else. Be sure to draw them on first, and leave room for the two sections of handle- Reno's rod actually has two sections of the pleather handle, with the ridge and button between.
2. Glue the base to the middle piece, then glue the top on. Work one section at a time, because you have to physically hold the pieces together tightly for 30 minutes or more- the glue expands, so if you don't hold them together while the glue dries, the pieces go crooked as the glue dries. Have a partner, take turn holding the pieces together, watch some TV or something. Most of the time you can use string or rubber band to hold pieces together as they dry, but believe me, we tried- the only way for these initial pieces is to do it by hand.
3. On the reference photos, you'll notice that Reno's rod has a ridge at the very top. Carving that would be difficult, so I'll just give you an easier way- take three quarters, which are a little bit bigger than the very top of the rod, glue them together, then glue them to the top of the rod. After you paint, no one will even notice what you used, and it looks great!
4. Next, the easiest part- take the rod outside, or in your garage, and drench that baby in silver spray paint. Put three or four coats on it, more if you think it needs it. After that's dry, put on two coats of sealer. Viola! Shiny silver Reno stick.
5. Now comes the handle part. Cut down the pieces of foam to what you'll need (or the pleather, if you chose not to get the foam). I used a 4 inch long section for the top handle, and a 3 and 1/4 inch long section for the handle right at the bottom, with a 2 and a half inch section between the two handles for the ridges and the button, which will be painted later. Coat the inside of the foam with a thin layer of Gorilla glue, wrap it around the handle where you want it (you should've cut off the overlap by testing it out around the handle without the glue first), and then either wrap big rubber bands around it or, if it won't stay flat, hold it by hand. If you went with foam, your going to follow the exact same process with the pleather, gluing it directly over the foam. Now use the same process with the other section, let them dry, and you have a handle! Hint: Have the edges of the foam and the edges of the pleather about an inch apart lengthwise. That way, if there's a gap in the wrap-around, you can't see the silver underneath.
6. Now, the strap to your wrist. IMPORTANT: Hook the strap to the D-ring BEFORE you glue the D-ring to the bottom of the rod! You're going to glue the flat part of the D-ring to the bottom of the rod with the round part off the edge, so the strap has a bit of room for movement within the ring. This may take a lot of patience and a lot of holding it down by hand- my roommate and I found out quickly that the D-ring doesn't like to stay glued. Use lots of glue...you WILL get it on your hands, so wear gloves if you don't like that idea...and hold it as long as possible. Then, once that's COMPLETELY dry and you know it's sturdy (add more glue after it's dry if you feel it needs it), hook the bracelet to the other end of the strap.
7. Last step! Use that red and white paint to paint the button on there! You can see the button in reference pics of the rod, and if you Google ShinRa, it'll give you lots of results with ShinRa's Japanese logo to work off of.
For pictures of the finished product, look in my gallery at my Reno folder. There are a few shots there that have a good view of the finished Turk weapon.
You should now have a Turk rod, ready to go! If you have any other questions, feel free to ask here or PM me.
Also, if anyone needs Reno or Rude's Turk IDs...look no further, for I have photoshopped them for you to print out and laminate (once again, for the poor person, buy the self lamination packets at WalMart. Stick the ID in, smooth it down, trim the edges, laminated!).
Rude's ID: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...nes/rudeid.jpg
Reno's ID: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...nes/renoid.jpg
Reno's goggles? Paintball section at a sporting goods store, about $7- and I spotted them at WalMart too, in the same section, same price. Use silver paint to add in the little silver pieces, viola. See? Poor people CAN cosplay for less!