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Old 10-26-2006, 04:17 PM   #1
Jantra
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Pink Foam Insulation - A Guide

Note: Anything underlined is a link to an image or website!

Pink Housing Foam (Insulation)

Where to Find It

I found mine at Home Depot, tucked into the back of the store in the Windows/Insulation area. It came in three thicknesses – ½ inch, 1 inch, and 2 inch. All three sheets were about 10 feet long. It cost like $12.50 without tax.

List of Places that Sell the Foam:
Home Depot
Menards (Info Credit: PrincessYuni)
Lowes (This sells the -BLUE- version)

Canada
Home Hardware (Info Credit: djaxle)
Rona (Info Credit: Jessia)

So what I did was I took my sheet to the lumber section, found someone, and politely asked them to cut it in half. They have a giant lumber cutting machine that will do it in the blink of an eye and leave a clean cut. Do NOT let them cut it any other way. Any other way will leave mars and pinched foam.

I actually forgot about this! You can buy this foam in blue. It comes in pink and blue but the blue stuff is a different company. Lowes sells the blue stuff - awaiting confirmation that most do. (Info Credit: halafax) You can also have the pink foam shipped to you through 1800-GET-PINK which is their company.

What Else to Buy

1) Liquid Nails and a Caulk Gun -- If you plan on gluing it down, I recommend this stuff called “Liquid Nails” (look for the blue can that says ‘foamboard’ on it since it comes in several varities.) This stuff takes a long time to dry, but can be very useful. It is thick, and can be used to patch holes (pinches, mars) in the foam. It can be sanded down. It will not melt the foam at all. This stuff is REALLY strong. The upper layer of the foam will rip off before the glue separates! (Tested this, that’s how I know.)

Caulk Gun is the device you put a tube of stuff like Liquid Nails into! You snip the VERY VERY tip of the Liquid Nails clearish plastic tip, then use a long nail or something to stick it through that tip and pierce the seal. Then put the liquid nails into the Caulk Gun so the end (not the tip) is at the same end as the handle. Squeeze the handle of the gun slowly, and the end will push into the butt of the Liquid Nails and make it come out. Note – you can decrease the pressure of the gun on the Liquid Nails by click the little handle on the back and pulling the thin metal rod back. Do this when you are finished so the glue doesn’t ooze out!

2) Gesso -- If you plan on painting it, go to a craft store and buy Gesso. It comes in many different sizes, and is useful for tons of things. I bought this massive jug of it for $14.00 and I’ve barely used any of it. Gesso is amazingly useful. You can do multiple layers on anything you wish to paint, and sand the gesso down for a smooth finish. It does not melt foam. You will NEED this before you paint foam because the paint will just soak into the foam, and possible melt it.

3) Foam Brushes -- Buy several sizes of foam (black foam) brushes. Large, medium, and small cost me less then a dollar. Perfect for painting and gessoing.

4) Sand Paper -- This is god for foam. You will need a course, medium, and fine. These are determined by numbers. 50 = very course 120 = medium 200 = very fine. I would get all three of these. They last a long time.

5) Face Mask – For when you are sanding or cutting, the dust hurts your lungs. You will need to wear a face mask. Got 5 for $3.00 at Home Depot, in the painting department.

6) Ruler -- A long, straight ruler, usually in metal. You’ll need this a lot. You can draw right onto foam. I’d recommend getting two – a long 3 foot one and a shorter 1 foot one.

7) Ear Plugs - Cost of like 50 cents from Home Depot. These are ONLY nesessary if you are using a large table/band/scroll saw to cut the foam. It -squeals- when its being cut, and can hurt your ears!

8) Instruments to Cut With – Explained in detail below.

Ways to Cut the Foam

This is the part that taker some serious trial and error. I can only relate what I have done, and possibly will edit this part as more information comes.

1) Utility Knife – this is a very basic way to cut the foam. It does VERY nicely when you can put your ruler down and cut straight lines. This does not do well for curves. This will NOT cut through 2 inches of foam – but would do nicely for ½ inch varieties.

2) Electric Carving Knife – I used this for a while, but now I would not recommend it. The blades break too easily.

3) Large Saws – I’m putting several things under here. These are things you might have in your basement/parent’s basement, might want to buy. All of these devices are meant to cut wood and can excellently cut foam too.

a) Bandsaw – this is what I used. A large device with a flat surface and a saw that moves rapidly. This comes in many sizes and price tags. This is PERFECT for cutting foam and wood. Curves are a little hard to do on this, but can be done and sanded to perfection.

b) Table Saw – Excellent for straight cuts. Also you can buy a ‘guide’ that does exact angle cuts. Ask about that wherever you buy this. Table saws = EXPENSIVE.

c) Scrollsaw – This is a scrollsaw. This can do delicate, very fine curves and angles. This takes some time to get good at, but is a miracle worker. The blades are very fragile though and take some work to learn not to break.

4) Hot Wire Cutter – Got mine at Michael’s. This is a cheapy thing that does larger, straight cuts. A little hard on angles. I got mine for like… $12.00 with 2 D batteries. NOTE: You must work in a well ventilated area for this! The fumes are DANGEROUS.

5) Hot Knife – I have not used this yet, but I want to. I have been told these are the best when it comes to cutting foam, and can do curves and straight lines. NOTE: You must work in a well ventilated area for this! The fumes are DANGEROUS.

Notes on Cutting and Carving

1) Draw everything out on the foam. Just use a pencil and lightly draw everything you want to do onto the surface of the foam before you cut anything. You must press lightly or you’ll rip into the foam. The pencil won’t show up much – it’ll leave lines behind in the surface.

2) When doing the intial cuts from the larger piece of foam, whittle it down. If you’re using a ¼ of the sheet, do yourself a favor and cut the other 3/4s off before you keep going.

3) Cutting and sanding the foam makes a LOT of mess. The light particles spread very far. I found a vacuum with a hose SO much help in this. It’ll suck the mess right up. Wear clothing that you can take off as soon as you are done, because you WILL track this stuff everywhere. Do not work with foam barefoot.

4) Wear a face mask at all times. Very important. While sanding, the dust will kick up and you will breathe it in. NOT good for your lungs and can leave them very sore.

5) Use the course sand paper to take off harsh, larger chunks of foam, the medium to get it into shape, and the fine to smooth it down. You’ll have to learn how to use the three coursenesses to your advantage.

6) If you are not slow and careful when using an electric carving knife, a utility knife, or sand paper, the foam will 'pinch' and 'mar' - the edges will nick and no longer be nice and smooth. You can sand most of the pinches and mars out, but not all! These can also be filled in with the Liquid Nails Glue.

Extra Notes

1) Be very careful! This foam is dense but snaps very easily!

2) It is also flammable! Keep away from open fire. I called 1800-Get-Pink and they said a hot knife/hot wire cutter will melt the foam, but not make it catch fire. If you leave it near a fireplace/candle/stove/whatever, it DOES have a flash point! So do not –sand- or –cut- near an open flame, because the dust can ‘flash’ and make a fireball. The foam-dust does not travel all that far, but better safe then sorry!

3) Gesso, in many layers, can help to keep the foam stronger. Also, try using shellac to give it a matte or shiny finish with more strength. Remember, shellac goes on -last-, even after painting.

4) Also, it has been mentioned that bondo, which is a car substance used to patch cracks and stuff, can make your foam practically indestructable. I know next to nothing about this, so if someone writes up a tuturial that I can link to, or a small instrutional paragraph about it, I'll add it here.

5) You can use latex paint (which, I believe, is what they use for painting houses) which can hold up strongly against spray can painting. (Spray can + ungesso'd/latex'd foam = melted foam) (Info Credit: DalaiLiam)

Feel free to PM me, e-mail or MSN me at jademoonstone4@hotmail.com, or IM me at MikkouKoneko if you have any other questions!

Last edited by Jantra : 10-30-2006 at 12:58 PM.
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Old 10-26-2006, 06:04 PM   #2
Seraphy
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This'll really help when I get some insulation foam! Thanks for making the tut! ^^
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Old 10-26-2006, 06:13 PM   #3
djaxle
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Awesome, just in time for my weekend project...P90s here we come.
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Old 10-26-2006, 08:07 PM   #4
Jantra
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Glad I can help! ^_^
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Old 10-26-2006, 09:29 PM   #5
PrincessYuni
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Here in Illinois there is another Hardware store chain called "Menards", they carry it too. (and great tutorial!)
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Old 10-26-2006, 09:37 PM   #6
Jantra
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Thanks, Princess! I'll add it - do they sell it for the same price??
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Old 10-26-2006, 09:46 PM   #7
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I believe it is close to, if not, the same price.

Also, I've allready added this tutorial to The Tutorial List! ^_^
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Old 10-26-2006, 09:47 PM   #8
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Finally, someone did a huge guide to pink.

I love this stuff... I've been piddling around with it for a couple of years, both at work and for cosplay.

And.... (Jantra) got everything right down to the littlest bit. Must be a pro. n.n
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Old 10-26-2006, 09:51 PM   #9
Jantra
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Actually, silencedchylde, this is my first time ever working with the insulation!

This guide was born because this is all stuff I -WISH I KNEW- when I started! Specially the cutting section and the idea of the face masks.

I'm not even done the prop I started working on (Demyx's Sitar from KH2)... ^^;;
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Old 10-26-2006, 10:12 PM   #10
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I wish Michael’s in Canada sold Hot Wire Cutters >_< I paid $35
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Help me find this fabric or something close to it T_T
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Old 10-26-2006, 10:20 PM   #11
Jantra
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Geez, Ani_BEE. I would have shipped it to you for cheaper then that. o.O
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Old 10-26-2006, 10:41 PM   #12
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NICE run down on using foam. I bow to your researching skil1z! I will have to look into using this in the future.
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Old 10-26-2006, 10:47 PM   #13
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^_^;; Thank you! Just the research of experience and a lot of fustration I hope to spare others!
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Old 10-27-2006, 01:47 AM   #14
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I did a similar tut a while back(now, lost in obscurity) and covered some points you didn't.

Latex paint works better than Guesso if you plan to spray paint a finish on it. If it's a large flat surface, use a roller.(they make those 3 inch mini ones for cheap too)

Ratehr than Liquid nails, I like to use Gorilla glue or wood glue. Both are a bit lighter weight. Go light with the gorilla glue if it'll be on a viewable surface, go heavy on it to reinforce structures if it's not going to be a visible surface.

and finally with the wire cutter, you can make templates for bevels out of posterboard. Just makes sure the board is secured pretty well with some double sided scotch tape and it makes an excelent cutting guide as the wire will usually not get hot enought to damage the cardboard unless left in one place for a LONG time. This works really well with swords and whatnot.
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Old 10-27-2006, 02:21 AM   #15
Jantra
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I tried Wood Glue and Gorilla Glue. I specially liked Liquid Nails, and find it to be a very light type of glue myself. I found Gorilla glue next to impossible to sand to a nice fine finish if you mess it up.

Latex = more expensive then gesso, by a lot, though. Latex can also be a serious pain to work with. Gesso is pretty much easy to use and clean up.

I'm not sure I understand what you mean by the wire cutter... could you explain more carefully?
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